The Lowdown: Sam Pryor of Fourth and Church
What’s your earliest food memory?
Eating really juicy fresh figs in the Rialto market in Venice.
What is your favourite comfort food?
Spam fried rice, fried egg, baked beans and chilli crisp. It’s a dish appropriated from my British-born Chinese wife. It has become my favourite way to start a Sunday.
Coffee or tea, and how do you take it?
Double espresso or cortado. I throw it back and rarely savour it, I’m afraid.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?
Probably working in IT; I have the right look!
What’s the best thing about being a chef and restaurateur?
A chance to meet the producers of amazing produce, wines, cheese, charcuterie - the list goes on. And of course, getting to taste them all.
What’s the worst thing about being a chef and restaurateur?
Being squeezed by the economic, legislative and social climate of the last 10 years. Sometimes it seems governments of every stripe are actively trying to choke small businesses.
What’s the next restaurant on your hit list?
The Ninth on Charlotte Street, Fitzrovia. Jun Tanaka is an excellent Chef whose food I have eaten before; I am keen to see how this translates to a neighbourhood concept.
What in your opinion is the best food destination in the world and why?
Diver XO in Madrid. The most exciting food and wine experience I have ever had; really next level, fun but without pretension. A restaurant that was clearly very technical, but that didn’t distract as I was lost in the heady flavours. A perfect balance between luxury and experimentation.
Name a restaurant dish that you’ve particularly enjoyed in the last few months. Olive Oil Sponge, Red Mayan Chocolate at Mare in Hove. The desserts in general were a highlight, both in flavour and texture.
It’s your birthday - how are you celebrating, food and drink-wise?
A picnic of rock oysters and a lovely grower’s champagne. Fino Sherry and some Jamón Ibérico, Cantabrian Anchovies and some sourdough bread. Cold roast chicken, romaine lettuce, lemon aioli with a bottle of white Burgundy. Maybe a tiny bit of Roquefort and a mouthful of Sauternes to finish.
Sam Pryor is chef/owner of Fourth and Church in Hove.
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