Out of Town: The Townhouse, Arundel
Matt and Jennifer Price (previously of Michelin-starred Sorrel in Dorking) have given the intimate 18-seat Georgian-era The Townhouse restaurant with rooms in the pretty Sussex town of Arundel an elegant olive green makeover. Sensibly, they’ve retained the building’s beautiful carved and gilded walnut ceiling, imported from Florence and dating back to the 16th century. It may be an historic setting, but there’s nothing dated about the cooking. Smoke, spice and herbs are judiciously employed across 7 and 10-course tasting menus (there are vegetarian alternatives for both) to coax the best from local produce.
Trout from Chalk Springs fishery, less than a mile from the restaurant, paired with tomatoes from nearby Nutbourne, a smoked tomato tea and the delicate floral flavours of elderflower and marigold made a sophisticated start (after a flurry of ‘snacks’, of course) to a memorable meal. The ‘Prime Catch’ main course pulled off a similar trick, but with the more assertive combination of a meaty pan-fried fillet of John Dory, a spicy and smoky Morteau sausage and a whack of umami from kombu cream sauce.
The Townhouse offers smart and modern fine dining, but with Matt and Jennifer handling everything themselves (Matt even delivers some of the dishes himself), The Townhouse has an agreeably personal feel that makes it as much of a neighbourhood favourite as a dining destination.
This review was previously published in the Observer Food Newsletter.
The details
The Townhouse
65 High Street, Arundel, BN18 9AJ
01903 944020; townhousearundel.com
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