Jonathan Ray’s Wine Pick: Herència Altés Garnatxa Blanca, 2025
Blink-and-you-miss-it Brunswick Fine Wines, a few doors down from the Theatre Royal, is a joy. As befits the 2023 Decanter Best Regional Wine Shop, South-East, it has some extremely tasty bottles on its shelves and, with prices starting at around 12 quid a bottle and going up to £8,420 (for 1893 Ch. d’Yquem since you ask), there’s something for pretty much everyone.
This little charmer, which features on the lists of both The Crazy Goose and the hidden Japanese gem that is Fumi in Circus Street, is right up my alley. Made from organically grown Garnatxa Blanca by Rafael de Haan and Núriá Altés (brother and sister-in-law of Brunswick’s co-owner, Carlos de Haan), in Terra Alta, Spain, it’s fresh and creamy with white blossom on the nose and plenty of waxy peach, apple and apricot on the palate. It’s disarmingly drinkable and goes as well with TCG’s upmarket pub fare as it does with Fumi’s posh sushi.
The details
2025 Herència Altés Garnatxa Blanca (13%vol)
18.95 per bottle (or £12.12 if you buy 6)
Available from Brunswick Fine Wines, New Road, Brighton and online at brunswickfinewines.com
Jonathan Ray is drinks editor of The Spectator, drinks columnist of The Field and Spear’s, former wine editor of both The Daily Telegraph and GQ and author of a dozen best-selling books on wines and spirits. He has a PhD in history and lives in Brighton.
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