Brighton’s Best Dish: English Wagu steak with peppercorn sauce at The Crazy Goose
The Crazy Goose is the latest addition to Raz Helalat’s Black Rock Group that also includes Burnt Orange, The Coal Shed, Tutto and The Salt Room. It occupies the site of the original Coal Shed, tucked away in a quiet back street between the Lanes and West Street. It’s Black Rock’s first pub and the first project under the group’s new executive chef Kim Woodward who previously worked for Gordon Ramsay for 10 years and was the first female head chef of The Savoy Grill.
Set over two floors with a ground floor bar and first floor dining room, The Crazy Goose is somewhere between a gastropub and a Parisian bistro and has been kitted out with all the style and care you would expect from a Black Rock venue. Brighton’s Best Restaurant’s co-director Sue Woodward was one of the first customers through the door and singled out English Wagu steak with peppercorn sauce (£28) as the highlight of her meal.
‘This is proper comfort food territory with the addition of the luxurious elements you expect from a Raz Helalat restaurant. The wagu steak was cooked beautifully pink and had a deep, rich flavour, enhanced by the peppercorn sauce served on the side. I ended up dipping the steak into the sauce so I could taste it with and without. I chose two sides to accompany the steak; grilled brassicas, punchy with the addition of plenty of garlic confit, and some creamy mash given a serious upgrade by the addition of a rich bone marrow jus and a piece of bone marrow on top. I scooped out the marrow and devoured it. I could have eaten thing myself but reluctantly shared it. A glass of Cote du Rhone had a robust enough finish to match the rich flavours and textures of the meal.’
The Details
The Crazy Goose
8 Boyce’s Street, Brighton, East Sussex, BN1 1AN
01273 929079; thecrazygoose.co.uk
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